The Bartolini Family Risotto

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Risotto della Famiglia di Bartolini

Risotto 1

This is it! The twice-delayed, much-anticipated, and another of the Bartolini Crown Jewels, my family’s risotto recipe. Though it’s been a long time coming, I think you’ll find it appealing, even if it is unlike most that you may know. You see, the Bartolini risotto is missing a couple of the dish’s standard ingredients and includes one that most do not — but we’ll discuss that in a bit.

Our risotto had quite a reputation among the branches of my family that did not reside in the two-flat. When our relatives from Cincinnati, at the time the southernmost members of the Clan, came for a visit, they had a standing request that this risotto be served as part of their welcoming dinner. I remember Mom making it for Dad’s Mother during her visits with us and risotto was often served when either of the two-flat’s families entertained. What made the Bartolini risotto so special? Chicken gizzards, an ingredient that was lacking from almost all other risotto recipes. If you liked gizzards, you loved this risotto. Of course, if you didn’t, well, you’d probably go hungry that night. The latter point being responsible for the greatest cover-up in the long and storied history of the Bartolini.

As popular as this dish was with the adults seated at the table, there was one member of the family, my sibling, who would have none of it. The child — henceforth referred to as “It” to protect “Its” identity — refused to eat them. Mom, in an effort to get the child to at least eat the risotto, told the child that they were “dried mushrooms” and “It” should put them aside and eat the rice. Knowing that the child balked at eating dried mushrooms, there’s no way so much as a grain of rice would have been eaten if “It” knew there were gizzards on that platter. Out of earshot of the child, Mom then turned to me and my other sibling, commanding we keep quiet about this, “Or else!”

Now, there’s nothing so unusual about what Mom did. After all, Mothers since the dawn of time have cajoled, bribed, and, yes, lied to their children, all in the name of good nutrition. (How many broccoli crowns have been hidden in meatloaf throughout the millennia?) No, the truly surprising thing about this tale is how long the ruse lasted.

We had all gathered at my Parent’s home for a family dinner, an event that had become more and more rare. When “It” noticed that Mom was preparing risotto, “It” asked Mom if dried mushrooms were to be included. Hearing that, I started to laugh and, much to Mom’s dismay, the cover-up was exposed. The astonishing fact is that the child was now in “Its” 30s! That’s right: 30’s! One “Or else!” from Mom and my sibling and I kept quiet for 3 decades. Kids today have it easy.

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Our risotto is a bit more complicated than most. The gizzards, after all, must be cooked first. To do this, they are sautéed before being used to create a stock. As you’ll see in the recipe below, both the gizzards and the stock are then used to create the risotto. You’ll also note that 2 cups of Arborio rice are used. This will make a rather large platter of risotto. You may wish to reduce the amounts.

Risotto Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 lb (455 g) chicken gizzards & hearts (see Notes)
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 carrot
  • 1 medium onion
  • 1 tbsp butterSautéing
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • water
  • 2 cups arborio rice
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 1 small – medium onion, diced fine
  • 10 button or cremini mushrooms, chopped (see Notes)
  • 7 to 8 cups stock (see Notes)
  • salt & pepper, to taste
  • Pecorino Romano cheese

Directions

  1. Add the butter and olive oil to a saucepan over medium heat. Add the cleaned chicken gizzards to the pot and sauté for about 10 minutes. The object is to give them a bit of color, not fry them till fully cooked.
  2. Turn the heat to high before adding the onion, celery, carrot, and 2 quarts of water.
  3. Bring to a boil and reduce to a soft simmer. Continue to simmer for 90 minutes, removing any foam that may rise to the top.
  4. After 90 minutes, strain and reserve the stock. Remove the gizzards and set aside to cool. Remove the vegetables and discard.
  5. Once cooled to touch, chop the gizzards to your preference.
  6. In a large sauce pan or deep frying pan, melt the butter over med-high heat. Add the onion and sauté for about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
  7. Add the mushrooms and sauté for a few minutes until some color is achieved.
  8. Add the gizzards and sauté until heated through. The onion should be translucentSimmering away by this time. Season with salt and pepper.
  9. Add the rice and sauté for another 5 minutes or so to toast it. The grains should be partially opaque.
  10. Reduce the heat to medium, add a ladle or 2 of hot stock, and stir the rice. Though you needn’t stir it constantly, you shouldn’t leave it for more than a couple of minutes.
  11. When the stock is all but gone, add another ladle of stock and stir. Repeat this process again and again until the rice is just about cooked. This should take about 20 minutes and the risotto should not be gummy but very moist, though not so much as to be a soup.
  12. Taste and add salt & pepper, as needed.
  13. Turn off the heat, add a final ladle or 2 of stock, cover the pan, and let the risotto rest for 5 minutes.
  14. Add a handful or 2 of grated Pecorino Romano cheese, stir to combine, and place on the serving platter.
  15. Garnish with more grated cheese and serve.

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Risotto 3

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Variations

In many versions of risotto, white wine and saffron are added to the rice, although neither are used in my family’s risotto recipe. At a later date, I will post a recipe for Risotto alla Milanese, in which both ingredients are required.

Notes

In my area, chicken gizzards are sold in 1 lb packages. Before cooking, they must be rinsed and trimmed of any fatty and/or dark parts. Try to keep the fleshy parts as intact as possible. These will be chopped once cooked.

If you’re trying to “disguise” the gizzards, it’s best to chop the mushrooms in about the same size as the chopped gizzards, keeping in mind that the mushrooms will shrink when cooked.

The standard ratio of rice to stock when making risotto is about 1 to 3½, meaning for every cup of rice you’ll need 3½ cups of stock. It never hurts to have extra stock on hand just in case more is needed to cook the risotto.

The stock created with the chicken gizzards is relatively simple, with the few ingredients left in large pieces. This makes it far easier to retrieve the gizzards once cooked.

When ready to start cooking your risotto, combine  the stock made when cooking the gizzards with enough homemade chicken stock to give you the amount required in the recipe. Of course, store-bought, low-sodium, chicken stock may be substituted.

Keep the stock hot but not boiling. If kept boiling, much of it will immediately evaporate upon hitting the hot risotto pan without having a chance to be absorbed by the rice.

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It’s déjà vu all over again … Corn RelishIt’s that time of the year again. In this part of the country, every grocery, market, and vegetable stand features at least one bin filled to over-flowing with ears of fresh corn. If you’re at all like me you just cannot get enough of the stuff. That’s all well and good for now, but what are you going to do come Fall when today’s surplus is but a memory? Well, with today’s blast from the past, you’ll be laughing all the way to the pantry. Zia’s Corn Relish is a great way to preserve today’s corn for tomorrow’s meals. It’s a simple recipe and you can find it by clicking HERE.

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Coming soon to a monitor near you …

Ravioli with Morels

Ravioli made with Ramps and Dressed with Morel Mushroom Sauce

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191 thoughts on “The Bartolini Family Risotto”

  1. In case you didn’t know, one way to a southern girl’s heart is to start talking chicken gizzards and hearts. 🙂 One can find fried chicken gizzards frying up in my kitchen every once in a while. I have never put them in risotto however, but I’m intrigued. I would definitely be one that would love this risotto! Thanks for this family jewel!

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    • I had no idea that the way to a Southern girl’s heart was with gizzards. I learn so much through blogging. 🙂 If you enjoy gizzards, MJ, this risotto is for you! It really was a hit, back in the day, with many people. It’s just not a common way to prepare risotto.

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    • Thank you. I get risotto every time I visit home but don’t make it nearly enough for myself. That corn relish is good with fresh corn, of course, but it’s surprisingly good with frozen corn, too.

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  3. Isn’t that funny that the whole family kept the secret for such a long time. Perhaps it’s because you never wanted the recipe changed! It sounds so flavorful. I haven’t cooked with the innards for a long time but I’ll get on it!

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    • Funny and miraculous, Maureen. As I’ve mentioned to others, if you like gizzards and hearts, you’re going to love this risotto. It really is a great dish — and I’m not the least bit biased. 🙂

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  6. I love the story and I’m sure your risotto has a wonderful flavor but I would be one that would politely push the gizzards to the side and then sneak them to my husband. I’ve tried them a few times…even in France but they are just not for me. 🙂

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    • Thanks, Karen. We all have our likes and dislikes, Karen. Honestly, I’m surprised by the number of people who like gizzards. I thought this recipe would be far less popular than it seems to be. Grandma knew what she was doing! 🙂

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  7. I am such a wimp when it comes to chicken gizzards, or any type of animal sweetbread! I struggle to get over my psychological reaction and just appreciate the flavour. This risotto looks beautiful, and I love the story that goes with it. My mother used to make steak and kidney pie when I was a child and I whinged and moaned for hours (or what seemed like hours… it was probably minutes, in child time!) until she’d allow me to leave the kidneys behind. I’m sure she snuck them into plenty of things she made though. Like she did with mushrooms and aubergine, both of which I now love! Thanks for sharing this precious family recipe with us John. I feel rather privileged, as I do whenever I read your posts. Such gems. Thanks my friend.

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    • You are so welcome, Laura. Heaven only knows what else our Moms fed us, hidden away under this sauce or stuck in the ground beef. I don’t see Mothers having much choice if their kids refuse to eat anything green, for example. Sounds like we both survived such horrible mistreatment. 🙂
      You’re not alone disliking organ meats. I have my own list of things I won’t eat. It’s just the way it is. Have a great week, Laura.

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  8. OMG, that risotto must taste like Heaven! I can’t believe there are people who don’t love chicken gizzards, seriously.,. Btw, i do hope you will publish these recipes in a book – it’s such a treasure, love your blog to bits! (only that i get VERY hungry while reading it, that’s NOT good! ;))

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    • Buona notte, BAM! Thank you for your kind words. I’ve never seen a risotto quite like this one on any menu or in any cookbook. It’s special but not just for its uniqueness. We all have fond memories of it being served throughout our childhoods — well, all but one of us. 🙂

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  20. Hi John,
    I was in “Little Italy” on Wednesday night…meaning I finally made my very first risotto (with gizzards and mushrooms of course) and it was awesome. My children loved it so much. Last night my son was scrapping through the left overs…I’m afraid very little was left over (about a cupful)! Wednesday was a lousy day for photography so my photos are not so great but I hope I’ll get some time to post and give everyone a peak of the Bartolini family risotto. Thanks so much John, for this wonderful recipe. I had not eaten gizzards for a while (one pound cost only $2.40, and it included a few chicken hearts too) but I’ll certainly be eating more gizzard because we shall be making the risotto on a regular basis. I wish you a wonderful weekend and a happy blogging, Hugs to Max!
    Liz

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    • This makes me happy, Liz. It’s always an honor when someone tries one of our family recipes and a real thrill when it is well-liked. When I started this blog, I wanted to record our family recipes with the hope that they wouldn’t be “lost.” Whether they’re prepared by a Bartolini or a Bartolini blogging friend makes no difference. The recipes are being used and enjoyed. It’s a great feeling. Thank you.

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  22. Hi, John,
    I am sad to admit that I have never made a risotto. This looks amazing – I am tempted to embark on a risotto adventure. I grew up eating LOTS of fried chicken livers with sautéed onions, so this dish particularly appeals to me. Of course, I am a sucker for any scrumptious, aged Italian cheese on top of a velvety bowl of pasta… so this looks like the ticket to a happy tummy. Well done – and thank you for sharing your food and food memories with us. Oh, on an off note, my mother’s side of the family all live in Cincinnati and have for many, many years. Abba and I lived in Cleveland for four years, as well. Take good care!
    Shanna

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    • Hello, Shana, and thanks for checking this family jewel. You know the worst part or making risotto? Getting past the first attempt. It’s an intimidating dish when it really shouldn’t be and considering your skills in the kitchen, you should have little problem. Now, I’m not going to say that I made it perfectly on my first attempt but it certainly wasn’t inedible and I learned. It really is much easier than you think and it’s a great dish to have in your repertoire.
      Isn’t that something that you’ve family in Cincinnati and lived in Cleveland? It truly is a small World and blogging is shrinking it even more. 🙂
      Have a great weekend!

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      • Hi, John,
        I think next week will be the week I try risotto. 🙂 At worst, it will still be edible on my first try. I am not too picky. 😉 Thank you for the encouragement.
        Yes, it is a very small world, indeed!
        Take good care – and enjoy your weekend, too!
        Warm regards,
        Shanna

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