This Recipe has Legs: Strangozzi Pasta with Octopus

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Strangozzi al Polipi

Recently, our good friend Tanya, of Chica Andaluza fame, shared a recipe for Carpaccio of Octopus. (Do check out that recipe and, while you’re at it, take a few minutes to explore the rest of her fantastic blog.) I’d not thought about octopus in years and that post reminded me that my family once cooked octopus, polipo. I spoke to Zia about it and we decided to prepare it the next time I visited her. That visit took place last month and, with Monday having been Columbus Day, I thought octopus would make a fine way to commemorate his voyage across the Atlantic. After all, there were those that believed his ships would be sunk by a giant octopus long before they fell off the edge of the Earth.

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Strangozzi al Polipi

Strangozzi al Polipi

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It’s been quite some time since an octopus was given the place of honor at a Bartolini dinner — more than half a century, but who’s counting? We really have no reason for it not being served since then. The dish is delicious, reminiscent of calamari in umido, and it isn’t at all difficult to prepare. No matter. The dish was prepared by my family at one time and thereby has earned a page on this blog.

Back in the day, we would have prepared the octopus in umido, which in this case means stewed in a tomato sauce. Served in bowls with a chunk of good, crusty bread, the dish is delicious and, in some homes, is one of the dishes on the menu for the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve. Originally, I had planned to prepare today’s recipe in umido until reality intervened.

As of now, I know of only one place to buy octopus and that’s at my Italian market. Unfortunately, they only sell very small or very large octopi and each poses a problem for us. When you cook something in umido, it is best that the protein be in large pieces. This is not a soup but a stew, after all, and the pieces should reflect that. Well, the small octopi are so small that it would take 4 to equal a pound (450 g). When chopped, the

Octopus over Polenta

Octopus over Polenta

pieces are far too small for in umido presentation. In fact, Zia and I attempted to serve them over polenta and, though tasty, all but a few pieces were too small even for that. On the other end of the spectrum, the market sells frozen octopi that are 4 and 5 lbs. apiece. Though that would be wonderful to prepare for a Bartolini family dinner, an octopus that size is far too large for a meal for Zia and I. So, although we had to change the dish to suit the circumstances, the search is on now for an octopus weighing 1 pound. When I find one, I’ll either create a separate Polipo in Umido post or amend this one to include that recipe. Bear in mind, though, that the ingredients used in the in umido recipe are the same as those used here for this sauce. Differences, if there are any, will be in the amounts listed. I’ll only be sure of that once I find an octopus in the right size.

Since we couldn’t serve the octopus as we had originally intended, in umido, Zia and I served it over polenta. As I mentioned earlier, that dish didn’t quite work as well as we Bartolini Strangozzi Pastathought it would. Again the octopus pieces needed to be larger. Once home, I bought 3 more small octopi and decided to serve them over pasta. As luck would have it, a few weeks earlier my blogging friend, Lidia, had noticed something while shopping and sent her discovery to me. (Not only does she share the name of one of my favorite chefs, Lidia has a wonderful blog, Oh Lidia, and I hope you take time to have a look.) You can imagine my surprise when I opened the carton and found 3 pastas manufactured by a company called “Bartolini”. I can’t think of a better pasta to serve with this old family recipe than one that shares our family name. So, of the 3 sent, I chose to prepare strangozzi.

In an earlier post, I demonstrated how to make strozzapreti pasta and gave an account of how it got its name. (See It’s déjà vu all over again … ) Strozzapreti, you see, means priest choker and one legend states that this pasta was so delicious that priests choked when eating it for the first time. What does this have to do with strangozzi? Well, it is thought that the word strangozzi is derived from the Italian word for shoelaces, stringhe, yet this pasta has come to mean priest stranglers. Huh?  Stay with me. Centuries ago, in Umbria, the clergy was not looked upon kindly by the villagers. Legend says that they chased down the worst of the clergy and those that were caught were strangled with their shoelaces. These long pasta ribbons are thought to resemble those shoelaces. Death by shoelace immortalized in pasta. Ya gotta love it!

In reality, strangozzi are about the size of what we would call linguine, the only difference being in their thickness. Our linguine are cut from thin pasta sheets; strangozzi is cut from sheets twice as thick. The result is a hearty pasta that is perfect for heavier or meat-based sauces.

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Before beginning the recipe, the octopus must be cleaned and readied. The head is actually a hood and the contents of its interior need to be removed. It is easy enough to do and you can slice its side to make it even easier. Next, the eyes must be removed. Make a small slice on either side of each eye, creating a small wedge. Remove each wedge and the eye with it. Since these octopi were so small, I sliced the octopus just above both eyes and again below, creating a ring. I then cut the eyes off of the ring. One last thing to be removed is the beak. Turning the octopus upside-down, you’ll notice a small whole at the center of the 8 legs. With your fingers, carefully feel the beak and note its size. With a sharp knife, cut around the beak and remove. Now that it’s cleaned, cut the legs section in half, creating 2 parts with 4 legs apiece. Cut those pieces in half again, and then again. In the end, you will have separated all 8 legs. Do not chop them but leave them whole and proceed with the recipe.

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Small Octopus
Cleaned and cut. Smaller circled item is the beak; the larger is the eyes

Click to see any/all photos enlarged.

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Strangozzi Pasta with Octopus Recipe

Ingredients

  • octopus (See Notes)
  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes (more or less to taste)
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced or grated
  • 1/3 cup chopped parsley
  • 1 large can, 28 oz (800 g), whole tomatoes – hand-torn
  • 1/2 tsp dried marjoram (2 tsp fresh)
  • 3 to 4 oz dry white wine
  • 1 lb  (450 g) cooked Strangozzi pasta — or whatever pasta you prefer — cooked al dente
  • reserved pasta water

Directions

  1. In a medium saucepan over med-high heat, bring to boil enough water to cover the octopus. Add the octopus and allow to simmer for 1 to 2 minutes after the pot returns to the boil. Small octopus should boil for 1 minute. Larger should be allowed to boil closer to 2 minutes. Remove the octopus and place in an ice bath to stop the cooking process and reserve. Once cooled, see Notes for chopping considerations.
  2. Over med-high heat, add olive oil in a medium sauce pan.
  3. Add red pepper flakes, onion, garlic, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper before sautéing until the onion is translucent and garlic fragrant — about 6 to 8 minutes.
  4. Add the tomatoes, wine, and marjoram, stir to combine. Bring to a boil before reducing to a soft simmer.
  5. After the sauce has thickened and darkened a bit — about 30 minutes — add the chopped octopus and continue to simmer.
  6. If using small octopi, it should be finished cooking in about 20 minutes. Taste a piece after 15 minutes to test for doneness and to check the seasoning. If necessary, add some of the reserved pasta water. (See Notes)
  7. Meanwhile, the pasta should have been cooked al dente and strained. Be sure to reserve some of the pasta water.
  8. In a large bowl or serving platter, combine the octopus sauce with the cooked pasta and mix. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water.
  9. Serve immediately.
  10. Like all mildly flavored seafood pastas, grated cheese is not recommended for it will overpower the dish.

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Raw
Blanched
Chopped

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Notes

The dish will determine the size of the pieces when chopping the octopus.

  • For pasta dishes, I would suggest chopping small octopi into pieces about 3/4 inches (2 cm). These pieces will shrink a little during cooking and will be easily managed no matter what pasta you choose.
  • For in umido, a larger octopus should be used and, when chopped, the pieces should be larger. Ultimately, the size will depend upon how comfortable you are dealing with the pieces while eating. Even so, I would suggest that all pieces be no less than an inch (2.5 cm) long. (Since this recipe was posted, I did find and prepare a 1 lb. octopus in umido. You can see that recipe by clicking HERE.)

No matter the preparation or the size of the pieces, do try to keep them all the same size. Doing so will ensure that all the octopus is evenly cooked.

Understandably, the larger the octopus, the longer it should simmer in the tomato sauce. A small octopus should take 15 to 20 minutes, as was stated in the recipe above. Larger octopi will take up to 30 minutes, maybe more. Be careful not to overcook lest the octopus become rubbery. If in doubt, taste a piece to see if it is cooked to your liking.

For reasons unknown to me, we’ve always discarded the water used to blanch the octopus. Even though the octopus is in it only briefly, the water does darken in color.

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It’s déjà vu all over again …

Strozzapreti with Pesto

Strozzapreti with Pesto

With all of this talk of strangling priests, it’s only logical that today’s look back would be to the strozzapreti post. Not only will you learn how to make the pasta by hand, you’ll also learn how a few of the common pastas got their names. All this can be yours just by clicking HERE.

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Coming soon to a monitor near you …

Damson Plum Jam Preview

Damson Plum Jam

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208 thoughts on “This Recipe has Legs: Strangozzi Pasta with Octopus”

  1. Oh what a coincidence!!! I was just about to email you a picture of the Bartolini pasta I just bought! I thought John would love to see it and I see someone beat me to it but at least I can tell you that we get Bartolini pasta here too. All the way in Jordan 🙂

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    • That is a coincidence, Sawsan. Imagine that! I’m touched that you, too, would see that pasta and think to let me know of your discovery. Thank you for being so thoughtful.

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  2. Oh boy, I honestly don’t think I would ever prepare octopus – just can’t bring myself to do it. However, I really liked learning more about strangozzi and the fascinating story of the priest stranglers.

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    • I realized that octopus wouldn’t be for everyone, especially once the prep work was revealed. Thankfully, these were small for I do believe I wouldn’t be so willing if I worked with one of its much larger cousins — and I hope to never find out for sure. 🙂

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  3. the octopus is here–yay! Looks amazing and wish I was at your table to enjoy. Thinking I’m not up to this task, though have put it on my List 🙂 Thanks for sharing. And yum, will be back for that jam.

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    • Thanks, Liz, though prepping octopus may not be for everyone, you may be able to find it cleaned and even chopped at some fishmongers. And if not? Just have a nice dish of strangozzi with your favorite meat sauce. 🙂

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    • Thanks, Judy. Forget the octopus and look for the pasta. I think you’ll enjoy strangozzi with your favorite meat sauce and imagine the fun you’ll have relating the story to your dinner guests. 🙂

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    • Thanks, Sally. Others before you have mentioned seeing octopus, already cleaned and even chopped, in fish markets. Asian markets were mentioned in one comment. I tell you, I’ll be looking out for it. The bigger the octopus, the less enjoyable the cleaning process, for me anyway. 🙂

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    • Thank you so much. If prepared properly, it is very tasty. Unfortunately, all too often it is served over-cooked and then it is chewy, like rubber. When you try it, I hope it has been prepared correctly. you will really enjoy it, I’m sure. 🙂

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  7. Oh dear John, as delicious as this looks and as informative as your post is, I don’t know if I can bring myself to eat octopus. I’m just not that adventurous and you know I don’t care much for seafood as it is. My children are so much better at being adventurous foodies, they enjoy calamari and octopus. Maybe I can take baby steps….I really have to get over this fear of certain foods:) You make it look so good so I am felling confident. We have a decent Asian market very close to my house, they carry octopus and stuff. I’ll let you know how it goes 🙂
    Have a great weekend John!

    Nazneen

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    • Thanks, Nazneen, but you needn’t feel that you should give octopus a try. We all have foods that we don’t especially care for. That’s just the way it is. Octopus, with its 8 legs, is a bit daunting to clean and prepare, especially if you’re not a seafood lover. I’ve an idea. Take your kids to a fine Italian restaurant, let one of them order the octopus, and you can sample it. Far better to try it that way than to torture yourself trying to prepare something you just don’t care for. 🙂

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  10. John, in this realm you are a master of storytelling! Whether or not I “can go where you go” in the kitchen, whether or not I have the courage (or time, or access to the ingredients) to tackle what you quite honestly make so do-able, I ALWAYS love reading the story that goes with the dish!! (Imagine how horrible those priests must have been to have the people believing death by shoelaces the most fitting punishment!) great great post!

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    • Thank you so much, Spree. I must admit I’m a bit surprised how many said they would enjoy octopus. I didn’t think it would be nearly as popular. I do enjoy learning the folklore behind these pastas. It’s always fascinated me. In this case, I doubt that throngs chased and strangled priests. I do wonder, though, if there is some kernel of truth to the legend. I pity the priest if there is … 🙂

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  11. Oh wow, octopus, nice! I have actually only first tried octopus this year (3 months ago to be precise) and I was surprised by how much I liked it. I have never cooked with it before, but I definitely think it’s on my to-do list now!

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    • It’s the “Ew!” factor associated with eating octopus that keeps many from trying it. That’s a shame because, if prepared well, octopus really is quite tasty. Congrats for taking a chance. If you do try cooking octopus, start small and work your way up to the big ones. The little ones aren’t nearly as daunting to clean as their bigger cousins. 🙂

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  12. Believe it or not, this smimiliar pasta made some trauma for me….
    i had my 50 USD multiple courses dinner, one of the main is this kind of octopus pasta,
    the sauce is terrible hot and spicy (arrabiata style) and the octopus is chewy as hell,
    i guess they did’t slowcooking and direrctly quicky strir fry like a squid….
    i think i’m gonna love your version even better!!!

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    • Sorry that you had such a bad dish, Dedy. They obviously did not know how to prepare octopus. I, to, have had it poorly prepared and did not like it at all. I hpe the next time you have octopus, it is much better and you enjoy it!

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    • Thanks, Kathleen. This is one of those dishes that’s just not for everyone. If you do give it a try one day, I hope it’s well-prepared. Rubbery octopus will definitely turn you against the dish.

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  15. I’m relatively certain I will never be cutting the beak out of an octopus. It takes some doing to get my family to eat fish! If I have octopus, it will be in a restaurant & hopefully they will use your recipe. As for those clergy suffering an ill-timed demise by shoelace, you’d think they would have switched to loafers! Lame, I know, but consider it the groaner of the day 🙂

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    • Thanks, Mar. If you do order it in a restaurant, I hope they prepare it well. Most do but it only takes one badly cooked octopus to turn one against it for life. No one wants to chew on rubber. As for the groaner, it was well-timed and gave me a good chuckle. Yes, I need to get to bed. 🙂

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  16. Lovely post as usual John. I love the serendipity of the family name on the pasta. I follow Lidia and really enjoy her posting too. Given the recent history over here in Ireland, we could have done with strangling a few priests here too. Excellent storytelling and recipe presentation. I love reading your posts.
    Best,
    Conor

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    • Thanks, Conor, for such a nice compliment. Love Lidia’s blog, as well, and how nice of her to think of us and to send the pasta. What a surprise! I really enjoy the folklore behind the recipes and, when in Italy, will ask the waiter how a pasta got its name when it is one I’ve not heard of. It makes for a great anecdote when I serve the pasta back home. 🙂

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  17. I’ve never cooked octopus. My husband likes eating it but I am perpetually put off by the tentacles and suction caps. Just looking at your close-ups with the beak and eyes made me squirmish…. ugh!!!! 😦 I know that many other meats are just as bad in different ways but the sliminess is a bit of a struggle. Anyway, whew (got that off my chest!). Your recipe looks amazing. Thanks for the thorough instructions and photographs. If I can summon the courage to tackle fresh octopi, this recipe will be first on my list!

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    • Thanks, Laura,for sticking it out even though it’s not necessarily your cup of tea. If you so summon the courage, be sure to get a small octopus to start. The eyes are closed and look like bumps; the beak is quite small, and the suctions on the tentacles are very small, too. I should have included a ruler in the octopus photos so that you could see just how small it was. I think it only weighed about 115 g, if that. It was small and far less “offensive.” To be honest, I don’t know if I could handle an octopus that was 2 or 3 kilos. 🙂

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  18. I do enjoy octopus indeed! Such a delicious sounding recipe thanks. We can get fantastic fresh octopus at the local markets, and some of them are ginormous, or we can get teensy tiny little frozen ones from Asia. We’re spoilt for choice 🙂

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    • I must admit I’m a tad jealous. I bet I can find a wider selection, too. I’ve really not been looking that long and, from I’ve learned, I can find almost anything I want here if I’m willing to search for it. Right now, I can find little and really large. I just need to find the in-between sizes. The hunt continues …

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    • Thank you so much. I rarely order octopus unless I’m certain the restaurant knows how to prepare it. It’s wonderful when well-prepared but just plain awful when over-cooked. ANd, yes, that was very kind of Lidia to think of us and send us her surprise.

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    • Welcome! Shrimp would work fine. I know, I’ve done it myself. Just be careful not to overcook them and you’ll have a great meal. Thanks for the visit and taking the time to comment.

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  22. Oh John one of my favourite pastas is the “strangled priest”. I am not sure if I have had octopus with pasta but it is refreshing to see it braised another way ( without tomato). looking forward to your jam

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    • Thanks, Tania. Yeah, strangozzi is a favorite around here, too. Although we’ve served octopus with pasta before, it’s always been more of a frutti di mare dish with several types of seafood. Normally, we serve octopus stewed in tomatoes. I found a properly sized one and Zia and I will be cooking it again when I visit next month. 🙂

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  23. This is such a great “primer” on dealing with octopus as an ingredient! Not sure how easy it is to find here, but my husband has commented on how he’d like to give it a try working with it as an ingredient at home, given how we have enjoyed octopus dishes dining out. I double-checked Monterey’s Seafood Watch to verify its sustainability status (I am a sustainable ingredient geek, I admit) and was happy to see most sources are acceptable — this is what Monterey noted: “The common octopus is a popular sushi item where it is sold under the Japanese name tako. Due to heavy fishing pressure (current and past), habitat damage caused by the fishing gear, and a lack of fishery management, we recommend consumers “Avoid” octopus from Mauritania, Morocco and Vietnam. Common octopus from Spain is a “Good Alternative.””

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    • Thanks, Kat. I’ve since found a 1 lb octopus and may revisit the recipe once Zia and I prepare it. I bet you can find octopus in your area. You might recall that my Uncle’s family immigrated there, on the Canadian side of the border. There were many Italians living there. If you can find an Italian market, with a fish department, you may be able to find octopus if not fresh, frozen.
      I’m a big fan of Seafood Watch and refer to it before I buy seafood at the market or in a restaurant. In fact, next week’s recipe was inspired by a recipe from their site, as you’ll soon find out. 🙂

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  27. Frankly speaking, John, I’ve never cooked or eaten octopus, but thank God you decided to give them a place of honor at a Bartolini dinner after more than half a century, now I believe the inferior brethren did actually look at you and motion its arms…it probably knew it was high time you showed us some octopus preparing skills and i did enjoy reading about the shoelace-priest story too. Thanks so much for sharing I wish I could get an opportunity to eat some octopus over polenta or pasta. I am sure once prepared it tastes very nice. Have a safe trip and best wishes to Max

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    • I brought that superior octopus with me and Zia and I enjoyed it very much. I’m so glad I “rediscovered” that recipe. I need to update this post with the adjusted ingredient amounts. If, for no other reason, than I’ll forget them if I don’t write them down. 🙂

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