Trenette with Soft Shell Crabs and Morel Mushrooms

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Present conditions notwithstanding, spring’s arrival is certainly welcomed in these parts, for it means the return of flowers and green to our drab landscape. It also means that fresh produce and vegetables begin to make their return to our markets, starting with asparagus and a variety of mushrooms. One yearly event that may escape your notice is the arrival of soft shell crabs. A crab’s shell does not grow, so, every year the crabs shed their old shells in favor of this year’s newer, more spacious models. The new shell is relatively soft for a few weeks, setting off a rush to harvest as many crabs as possible before they toughen up for another 11 months.

Lucky for me, I’ve a great fishmonger that provides many of the fruits of spring. Located not far from my home in Chicago, The Fishguy Market & Wellfleet is my go-to place for seafood and, in the spring, for items like morel mushrooms, asparagus, and ramps. Today’s post may have been written last spring and held until now but its morels and soft shell crabs, as well as the duck eggs used to make the trenette pasta, all came from the Fishguy. They offer much more than I could possibly mention here and my advice for those living in Chicagoland would be to join the mailing list. You may find it worth your while to stop there some day but be forewarned. If you’re going for a sale on clams or soft shell crabs, get there early. They are the favorites of some selfish blogger who, by his own admission, cannot resist buying them.

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Linguine with Soft Shell Crabs and Morels 1

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I first enjoyed soft shell crabs some 20+ years ago while working in The Loop. A few of us went to lunch at a nearby hotel and soft shell crabs were on the menu. I decided to give them a try and it was love at first bite. Lightly floured and deep-fried, the crabs were served open-face on a long roll reminiscent of New Orleans’ oyster poor boy sandwiches.  Since that fateful day, I order or prepare them whenever I see them. (By the way, a recipe for soft shell crab po’ boys is in the works, as well as a yellow curry.)

It is best to purchase the crabs at their peak of freshness, meaning they should be alive if possible. It also means that you’ll have to kill and clean them before using them in your dish. Well, I love the crabs but let my fishmonger handle the dirty work. As for the morels, a simple brushing should remove any dirt. If need be, you can give them a quick rinse — do not soak — but be sure to pat them dry before using. (See Notes.)

Last week, a number of you inquired about the trenette used in these recipes. Cut a little thinner than linguine, trenette most closely resembles that which Mom cut by hand when I was a boy. Luckily, I found an attachment for my pasta machine that recreates this nostalgia-packed pasta. If you go looking for the pasta, be sure to buy “TRENETTE” and not “TRENNETTE“.  The first is Mom’s pasta. The latter is another pasta that is much like penne, though a little more narrow.  Regardless, don’t be alarmed if you cannot find trenette. Look for a dried pasta called linguine fini. It will make a fine substitute.

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Scheduling Note 

This is it, my last post for the next few weeks. My nephew and I will be traveling to Italy to visit Dad’s family in The Republic of San Marino and then it’s off to see Rome. Later, while he boards a plane to return home, I’ll board a train to Corinaldo, the wellspring of the Bartolini Clan. See you on the other side.

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Trenette with Soft Shell Crabs and Morels 4

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Trenette with Soft Shell Crabs and Morel Mushrooms Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 lb (450 g) trenette – linguine may be substituted
  • 3 or 4 soft shell crabs, cleaned
  • 2 tbsp buter
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, smashed
  • red pepper flakes, to taste
  • 2 to 4 oz (56 to 112 g) morel mushrooms (see Notes)
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • reserved pasta water
  • fresh parsley, for garnish

Directions

  1. Heat oil and butter in a large frypan with a lid over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until browned but not burnt. Remove and discard the garlic, leaving the now-flavored oil in the pan.
  2. Add the red pepper flakes and crabs to the pan, lower the heat to med-low, and cover the pan.
  3. Continue to gently sauté the crabs for about 15 minutes, turning them over mid-way through. The crabs will turn crimson when cooked.
  4. Meanwhile, bring to the boil a large pot of salted water. Add the trenette and cook until it is about 2 minutes shy of being al dente. (If using packaged pasta, refer to the package instructions.) Time the components so that the crabs and pasta are ready at the same time. Now is the time to reserve a cup of the pasta water.
  5. Turn the heat to med-high before placing the morels into the pan with the crabs.
  6. Drain the trenette and dump the pasta into the pan. Stir/toss to combine. If too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water.
  7. Continue to sauté until the pasta is cooked to your satisfaction.
  8. Remove to a serving platter and garnish with freshly chopped parsley before bringing to the table.

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Linguine with Soft Shell Crabs and Morels 2

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Notes

As this blog’s good friend (and honorary Bartolini) Stefan proved, mushrooms do not absorb enough water to affect taste when cleaned by rinsing with water. Morels have a pitted surface to which water may cling. If you do rinse them, take extra time to dry them as much as possible. Failure to do so may result in the morels being steamed in the frypan instead of being sautéed.

Timing is important with this dish but not as critical as it was in last week’s mollusks dish. Still, you don’t want the pasta or crabs to sit waiting for the other component to complete. Fresh pasta will cook in about 3 minutes, so, drain and add it to the pan after it has cooked for about 2 minutes. Follow the package instructions for dried pasta, draining it about 2 minutes before the stated time for al dente.

Whenever you’re cooking pasta, always reserve some of the pasta water, removing it just before you drain the pasta. Should the finished dish be too dry, a little of this water will work wonders. Not only will it moisten the dish but its starch content will help to thicken whatever sauce is being used to dress the pasta.

If you cannot source fresh morels, dried may be substituted. Soak them in hot, NOT boiling, water for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Once hydrated, strain the mushrooms and use in today’s recipe but reserve the soaking liquid. Filter the liquid to remove any grit and freeze, to be used to flavor your next mushroom risotto.

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My comments regarding the Fishguy Market were my own. I requested and was granted permission to mention the market with no compensation trading hands for my doing so.

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It’s déjà vu all over again …

Ramps Ravioli with Morel Mushrooms

Since we’re talking about utilizing spring’s harvest, why not continue the theme with today’s look back? Hard to believe it was 3 years ago that I posted a recipe for ramps ravioli dressed with a morel mushroom sauce. WIth its ingredients soon coming into season, now’s the time to consider preparing the recipe. You can see how it’s prepared by clicking HERE.

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Coming soon to a monitor near you …

Corzetti Pasta Preview

A Surprise!

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82 thoughts on “Trenette with Soft Shell Crabs and Morel Mushrooms”

  1. Soft shell crabs are one of my very favorites. They are very hard to find here and if you do, they are quite pricey. I splurge and often get them fried at Vietnamese restaurants. I will eat them however I can get them. Maybe it is because I first had them in Baltimore when I was pregnant with twins 25 years ago. I would adore this pasta John! Have a fabulous trip. Eat well and stay safe.

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    • For the longest time, Abbe, the only soft shell crabs I enjoyed were prepared at my favorite Thai restaurant. Several years ago, they began to appear, very briefly in the spring, at a local grocery and I didn’t always get there in time. Now, though, thanks to my fishmonger, I have them yearly. Yay! Of course they’re a special treat for you. They come with some very warm memories. 🙂
      Thanks for the warm wishes. We’re sure to have a wonderful time.

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  2. John, what a beautiful recipe! Simple, depending on the quality of the ingredients and timing . . .a perfect meal if one gets it right and I doubt you will get it better in Italy either 🙂 ! I cannot get the crabs so shall file and hope for the future. And I for one never wash a mushroom!! And I have actually ‘visited’ your fishmonger and looked at what ‘he’ had to sell a week back I think. Now we are very proud of our Sydney Fish Markets – but it does not have half of what you are able to buy: lucky, lucky, lucky you . . . Do hope you and your nephew have the best time, especially with zia Pina who must be losing sleep already !!

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    • Thank you so much, Eha. A visit to his website will show anyone why I so love my fishmonger. Whether I’m cooking for myself or a special dinner, I know he’ll take care of me. Now don’t worry about us. My nephew’s main concern is that he wants to eat. Having eaten my way across that peninsula 5 times already, we will do very well together.

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  3. First of all, buon viaggio, John! I’d like to hop over to Italy and meet up, but my schedule already is crazy enough for the upcoming weeks. Kees will be going to Bologna on a business trip, so I am jealous of everyone going to Italy without me 😉
    Very interesting about the soft shell crabs — we don’t see them here so I had always assumed their shells to be soft year-round. I wonder if our local crabs work differently or aren’t harvested during their shelling season?
    The recipe looks really good. Morels are outrageously expensive here, so I’ve only used like a single morel per person. They definitely need rinsing as otherwise they can be very sandy.
    The sweet but crunchy crab meat with the soft earthy morels must be a wonderful combination.
    When I make fresh tagliolini, they cook in about a minute. So for this recipe I’d probably drain the pasta straight away after it has ‘set’ in the boiling water.
    Thanks for the shout out!

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    • Thanks, Stefan. I believe that all crabs must shed their shells and different areas harvest the suitable crabs at different times. It can be year-round in warmer waters. Over here, ours are blue crabs that come from the Chesapeake Bay in the spring, once the waters have warmed sufficiently. Since the all of the shell shedding occurs within weeks and not throughout the year, it’s quite a bounty.
      I hope to return to Italy in 2 or 3 years. We WILL get together then. If you cannot get away, don’t worry. I’ve not been to Amsterdam in a dozen years and I’m due to return. 🙂

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    • Thanks, Jasline. It’s these subtle differences in language that make traveling so much fun — at least for me. The look on a waiter’s face when I’ve obviously misspoke is very often priceless. 🙂

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  5. See now, I have never had soft shell crabs before. I know, unacceptable! Although I do absolutely adore crab – just never got around to them soft shelf ones. Think we should seriously talk about our visit…
    Have a beautiful day John and special hugs to dear Max.
    🙂 Mandy xo

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    • Believe me, Mandy, you come and we’ll dine on soft shell crabs at least once. I’ve a couple more recipes to share. Take your pick — “All of them” is certainly an option. I want you to enjoy your visit. 🙂

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  7. yes, buon viaggio direi anch’io John…. in rome make sure to check then newish Eataly and the fab pizza/focaccia/pane store of Gabriele Bonci, right now perhaps the most famous baker in Italy. Crab… well,, what can I say.. even after dealing with crabs almost daily in my restaurant days… I still find it delicious and this recipe sounds perfect: well balanced and sobre. s

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    • Hello, Stefano! You may not be aware that we have an Eataly here in Chicago and I am a regular shopper there. Their selection is without parallel here. Still, I love to go into markets when on holiday so I’ll try to get there. I did go to the Eataly in Firenze. Thanks, too, for the heads-up re: Gabrielle Bonci. I’ve put his “Pizzarium” on my list of places to dine. From the descriptions I’ve read, my nephew will love it.
      Thanks for your kind words and suggestions. See you in a few weeks. 🙂

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  9. I have never had these but they are going on the must try list. You have left us some wonderful recipes to be getting on with while you hoof it about Italy. So excited about your trip. I know you will have fun and eat lots of lovely foods and gather tons of inspiration. Love Love c

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    • Thanks, Celi. The crabs’ season is relatively short and I do not know how much longer it will last. I’ll be heading back tomorrow hoping to take advantage one last time before I leave. It would be great if he still had some when I return but I do not want to take a chance. Thanks for the vacation well wishes. This is gonna be fun!

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  10. Oh God I love soft shell crabs but we don’t find them very often. Stunning recipe. I need to have a pasta making session so will head to the fishmonger to see what he’s got this week. Safe travels John, am really looking forward to hearing how the trip goes. Big hug xx

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    • Thank you so much, Tania. I’m sure that we’ll have a wonderful time and I look forward to seeing Nonna & Nonno’s birthplace. Up until the last couple of years, the supply of soft shell crabs was hit or miss for me. Now, though, once I see them in the fishmonger’s display, I’m sold. I’m sure he’s getting sick of me showing up each week asking for more and is probably more eager for me to leave on this trip than I am. 🙂

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  12. April is morel month in Missouri where my Mom and I stomped all over the 40+acres of our farm in search of them. Mushroom gravy over biscuits … a little bit of heaven. Really, any dish with morels qualify as close to divine for me. This dish with soft shell crabs ranks, John, wish I had a fork and a plate full right now.

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    • I have to say, Judy, the more you tell me of your childhood, the more I wish time travel were possible. Now it’s morel picking. Oh, how I’d love that! There was a spot in the yard of a vacated house near Zia in Michigan that every spring sprouted morels but no more. The house was sold and all of the activity destroyed the patch. Drat! I don’t think they even knew it was there.

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    • Thanks, Teri. I considered traveling while wearing a bib and with fork-in-hand — time saving measures, you know — but I fear the TSA may see things differently. 🙂

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  14. Love soft shell crabs! Had some last week at a restaurant, actually. Haven’t cooked with them myself for years, though — it’s that killing thing. I real should let my fish monger do it. Anyway, this is a delightful recipe! Crabs and mushrooms just are made for each other — each intensifies the flavor of the other. Great dish. Have a great trip! –John

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    • Glad you enjoyed the recipe and aren’t these crabs the best, John? I “cleaned” them myself just once and that was enough. I’m a pest at the monger’s this time of year. The rest of the time, I resign myself to ordering them from my favorite Thai restaurant. (Hence the reason behind a future SS crab yellow curry dish.) Thanks, too, for the vacation well-wishes. The 2 of us are in for a good time, I’m sure.

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  15. Morels and soft shell crabs! What an ode to spring indeed! This looks marvelous and I love how the soft shell crab is prepared here. So perfect! You’re right about people not noticing that fish is seasonal. I used to be a fish monger after school during high school and this is when we’d hail the arrival of the soft shell crab and the shad would start breeding. I’m keeping my eye out for shad roe this year. It has such a short season. Have a wonderful trip in Italy!!!

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    • Thanks, Amanda. It will be great to walk around Rome again and see the family. Shad roe? Never heard of it. I’ll have to ask the Fishguy about it. At first, I thought being a fishmonger would be a dream job. Then I thought of opening oysters, cleaning eels, etc, etc, etc. Maybe I could work the cash register. You know, do something in-house that earned me the employee discount without any of the “mess.” 🙂

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  16. Thanks for the tip re: morels. I never cook with them – not sure why not – and will watch for that in the future. Also, great tip re: pasta. I remember you mentioning that before, and now I always save a little water. (It’s one of those tips that makes a person look like a hero!)

    Have an awesome trip! I hope you find great weather, laughter & warm memories and, of course, wonderful food.

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    • Thanks, Ruth. I’m really looking forward to taking my nephew to meet his cousins and then showing him around. We’ll have a good time. And then there’s the food. I can hardly wait!
      Morels can be quite expensive and I don’t cook with them very often at all because of it. When I do, however, I try to make sure it’s a special dish. This pasta would certainly qualify. No ingredient is too expensive for my soft shell crabs. 🙂

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    • Thank you so much. We’re sure to enjoy ourselves. It was certainly a banner day when I walked into the fishmonger and he had the crabs, morels, and duck eggs in supply. What else was I do to? The cooking gods were talking to me. 🙂

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  22. You have a truly amazing fish guy! It’s been forever since I’ve had soft shell crabs, but they are delicious. I’ve only had them in sandwiches and not with pasta but this dish is just bursting with the bounty of spring! Hope you have a wonderful, amazing and food-filled trip, John!

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    • You’re right, Betsy. This guy is fantastic and it was a lucky day when I first walked into his store. I’m not the only one to feel this way. He supplies a number of the city’s restaurants, too. I’m heading back there tomorrow. Might be last chance to get more crabs. 🙂
      Thanks for the vacation wishes. Emails have been flying back and forth across the Atlantic and I’m sure we’re going to have a good time, We’ll be in Italy. How could we not?

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  23. Buono Sera John! I hope your packed and ready… my goodness how exciting for you. Another great family and food adventure. You are going to come a few pounds heavier and full of delicious ideas for the blog. I love your current seafood pasta so simple but yet so delicious. Fabulous softshell crabs and morels. You have my full and complete attention! Wishing you safe travels and can’t wait to hear all about your trip or at least a couple of dishes you learned about from family.

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    • Buona sera, BAM!! Just one last pass through the blog and then it’s closed for the duration. I really cannot wait to get over there and my nephew is already planning his meals. We should do very well together. 🙂
      Thanks for the well-wishes. Take care.

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  25. The first time I had soft shell crab was in a Japanese restaurant. It is battered lightly and deep fried. Although I am not much of a seafood person, I do appreciate soft shell crab. This pasta dish with the soft crabs shells and morel mushrooms is quite special.
    If our schedule allows, I am contemplating on a TransAtlantic cruise that starts in Rome in October. To spend some time in Italy, before boarding the ship. Have a wonderful time in Italy, and bring us back some souvenir stories. 🙂

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    • Thank you, Fae. My first soft shells were breaded and fried, too. I was hooked!
      Oh, how I hope your schedule will allow that cruise and a bit of time In Rome.That sounds wonderful! Well, any holiday that begins in Rome has got to be good. 🙂

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  26. There used to be a family owned fish shop. They knew me, I trusted their products. It was lovely, John. I haven’t had much luck since they sold out.
    Not sure I’ll ever get to taste soft shelled crabs. But your recipe looks delicious. (Perhaps I should shift to Chicago?)
    Your fond fans will be happy to wait for you to get back from San Marino. We know your suitcase will be packed with interesting recipes. 🙂
    Bon Voyage.

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    • Thanks, Mary. SO many Mom & Pop shops are closing with no viable alternatives for those of us left behind. A few months ago, I lost my butcher.Luckily, this fishmonger is very popular with the chefs in Chicago. I don’t think he’ll be going anywhere anytime soon.
      I certainly hope to bring back some recipes. My Zia is a wonderful cook. I’m so looking forward to this! 🙂

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  27. John – I’m a little more than slightly jealous of your fishmonger. Living in the desert, things like softshell crab are not easy to get. Morels our new picnic defined either. I might just have to live vicariously through your photographs this time… But, rest assured, if I find them I’ll be making this! Buon viaggio, amico!

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    • Morels at the fishmonger were a very pleasant surprise last year, David. I since have learned that Eataly has them, too. I don’t buy them very often due to the cost. Soft shell crab pasta, though, seemed a worthy platform. I wasn’t wrong.
      Thanks for the well-wishes. It won’t be long now and I’ll be in Bologna. Warn the villagers!!!

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  28. Those pesky bloggers who buy up all the seafood! #howRude 😉 Again, you have created a dish that looks like heaven. Soft shell crabs are one of my favs – I ordered it for dinner a few nights ago and loved every bite – as are mushrooms. Perfect pairing.

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    • I hear that blogger is going out of town for a couple weeks at the same time I”ll be in Italy. Oh, the irony!
      As a fellow lover of soft shell crabs, I’ve got a couple more recipes that you may enjoy. I’ve taken full advantage of this year’s harvest. How could I not? 🙂

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    • Thanks, Margot. It won’t be long now and I’ll be deciding which pasta to order for lunch — with an eye towards supper, of course. I hope someone let the pasta workers know to expect overtime hours in the next couple weeks. It’s only fair. 😀

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    • Sorry to say that I’ve not heard of soft shell crabs being harvested in Europe. Here, they’re available in spring because that’s when the coastal waters warm up. In Asia, the waters are warmer bur they don’t get the great numbers that we do. I guess you’ll just have to come for a visit — once your tire a bit of that new kitchen of yours, of course. 🙂

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    • Thanks, Mimi, for the vacation well-wishes. I bet you’d enjoy these crabs. They’re featured in a number of ethnic restaurants, as well as those with American fare. I’ll take them any way they’ll serve them. 🙂

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  32. This is an amazing dish. Here we buy soft shell crabs frozen but ready to go and they are quite okay when cooked quickly and well. Great flavours and I love your idea of combing the soft shell crabs with the morels. Deliciously amazing:)

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    • Thanks, Merryn. So long as the seafood is flash frozen and well-wrapped, it’s about as close to fresh as you can get. A good fishmonger is invaluable here. He won’t lead you wrong. 🙂

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  33. I enjoyed the link to your fishmonger, John. And thank you for the information regarding soft shell crabs. The ingredients in this dish are absolutely mouth-watering. I love morel mushrooms and this dish is both rich and simple at the same time. Very tempting. Your trip with your nephew sounds like a wonderful adventure. I hope you have themes amazing time!

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    • Isn’t he a great fishmonger, Debra? His market isn’t really that large but the variety of items offered is just incredible! Best of all, you never need worry about sustainability and his staff will answer any questions you may have about preparation. It was my lucky day when I first crossed that threshold. This soft shell crab dish is proof.
      Thanks for the vacation well-wishes. I am so looking forward to this trip. Won’t be long now. 🙂

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  34. So the non seafood person…me…can sometimes handle crab. I would love to try soft shell crabs and think often about just ordering them…but then wonder what would happen if I didn’t like it! I’m really a very bad food blogger 🙂
    The pasta looks wonderful as usual John, and I’m sure it tastes fantastic too.
    Enjoy your trip to Italy, I look forward to seeing your trip photos on FB 🙂

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    • Well, Nazneen, rather than try these crabs on your won, why not order them when you’re dining with a chivalrous friend? For example, I could accompany you and, if you didn’t care for them, I’d take them off you hands. (That’s the chivalry part.) See? Now we’ve got a plan. We’ll work out the details once I get back. I doubt that I’ll find any but if I see soft shell crabs on a menu, you can bet there’ll be photos on Facebook. 😀

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  35. caro amico spero che sarai già nella mia ( nostra) bella Italia agoderti la nuova famiglia e la pasta! Lo sai che il grande Frank Sinatra, veniva apposta con l’aereo privato a Genova per mangiarsi un piatto di trenette al pesto?
    la tua cucina , le tue preziose ricette hanno il profumo ed i sapori della nostra cucuna mediterranea ma tu ben sai che tutto il prodotto originale lo potra gustare solo qua…quindi, buon soggiorno amico, ma soprattutto BUON APPETITOOOOOO
    Annalisa

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  37. You had me at the title, oh how I love soft shell crab! We hunt it down every year as well. We didn’t prepare any at home this year but we did go out for some. It is a special time of year, the best of spring. I watch my Instagram feed and see which restaurants are preparing soft shell crab and am sad when the short season is over. The mushrooms and pasta sound like a fantastic way to prepare the gem of a seafood!

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  38. Oh how I wish this area had the bounty of soft shell crab that the east coast does! You’ve given me the spark though to get searching and see what fish mongers in the area may be able to fill my need… this dish looks too good not to make. Thanks for the fabulous (and hunger inducing) recipe, John!

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  39. Oh sweet Lord, what a springtime gift Morel mushrooms are! But sadly, with an allergy to shellfish, I can’t do crab. John, is there any way that this delicious recipe can have a substitute for crab and still enjoy it’s springtime splendor?

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  40. next on my list! I have never cooked soft-shell crabs and I went looking for them a few weeks ago at the santa monica seafood market and I couldn’t find them. I didn’t know the soft shell was just because they’re shells are brand new. I thought their shells were just soft by nature. Anyways, I think I’m gonna give you recipe a try because it just sounds amazing. It’s been a long time since I’ve stopped by your blog and I remember how much I love it. Take care John! hope you’ve been well!

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  41. I simply adore soft shelled crabs but haven’t had them in a while. And aren’t’ you lucky to have such a fabulous fish monger not far from you? The perks of living in The Big City! I hope you’re having a fabulous time in Italy. Can’t wait to hear all about it!!

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  44. Pingback: Soft Shell Crab Po’ Boys with Sriracha Aioli | from the Bartolini kitchens

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